The main problem with fakes is when you are sold them as legitimate and you pay the value of the legitimate version not the recast. This can be 4-5 times more if they are rare items or 2-3 times for forgeworld/gw items
This is also a guide to spotting fakes it is not fool proof just because a model ticks one thing on the lists does not mean it is always a fake, fakes tend to tick 2 or 3 things at a time.
- Follow the cast line around the model is it uniform, constant and straight. GW made models usaully only have one cast line and it is straight and clean all away around the model including the base tab
- Look for two cast lines in the metal if the recaster is lazy there will be two.this is because his mould has copied the original cast line and therer will be a new one made by the recaster's mould
- Look for Air bubbles in areas such as between legs, arm pits and detail. unless they use a vacuum chamber or pressure pot then there moulds are more likely to produce models with bubbles in.
- Find a good picture of original or even better is to have a legit model and compare the detail, you are looking for loss and missing detail in any area
- Looks at the legs and arms in particularly for thin casts, warped or miss shaped areas.
- Look at the base tab is it plain or different from what is should be
- Is the metal softer, scrape the base tab or bottom of the feet to check this
- Look at the colour of the resin does it match pictures of the item some of the older items are yellowish not grey
- Look at the resin is it matt or reflective fakes tend to be very reflective
- Pick the model up is it similar density to other Forge world and does it feel the same
- Look for two or more cast lines in the resin if the recaster is lazy there will be two.
- Look for Air bubbles in areas such as between legs, arm pits and detail.
- Find a good picture of original and compare the detail, you are looking for loss and missing detail
- Look at the legs and arms in particularly for thin casts, warped or miss shaped areas.
- Is the model actually resin not a plastic stand in
- Is the resin texture correct, fw resin is smooth and non porous
- Is it on the original FW or fine cast spruces or is it attached to homemade spruces.
- Is the model supposed to be made from Plastic
- Edges on the models not lining (sometimes forgeworld do miss this on quality checks)
- Quite a lot of forgeworld kits come as part plastic part resin model, for example the Legion Glaive is based on a Baneblade and you get several baneblade spruces used to make up the internal lower part of the tank. Are the parts that should be plastic made from resin?
- You can look at the seller’s location. Russia, China, Singapore and Brazil be very cautious. (however don't assume all seller here are trying to rip you off there will be honest gamers here too)
- Look at a seller’s history large numbers of the same model is a warning
- Look at the seller’s history if it is private and he sells the same models every week this is a warning to
- look at the item is it a set of 10? When GW sold them was it a set of 10 different models or sold in sets of 5 which are all different. If the sellers item is a set of 10, 20 or more but there is only 3 varieties of models instead of 5 or 10 then that is another indicator. Watch out for models that are rotated or flipped.
- Look for constant sale of large sets with no original packing.
- Is everything sold primed but never painted?
|Russian seller on eBay selling resin casts of plastic items|
|Resin recast of plastic item|
|recast, look at base tab and loss of detail v original|
|Recast, look at base tab|
|A recast in shiny metal look at base tab and loss of detail on front leg and ball|
|Russian seller on eBay|
|look at the base tab there is a corner of flash were it is poured and there is missing text on the tab|
|look at the base tabs there is a corner of flash were it is poured and is missing text on tabs|